Skip to content

Comparison Men’s dress shoes

Gaziano & Girling St James II vs Edward Green Dover: which one should you buy?

Quick answer

Buy the Gaziano & Girling St James II if you want near-bespoke ready-to-wear. Buy the Edward Green Dover instead if you want the iconic derby.

We research products independently. When you buy through links on this page, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. How we earn money

Gaziano & Girling St James II
Buy

Gaziano & Girling St James II

Best for Bespoke-level RTW

Typically $1,900–$2,300

Check Price on Amazon Paid link
Edward Green Dover
Buy

Edward Green Dover

Best for Split-toe icon

Typically $1,500–$1,700

Check Price on Amazon Paid link

Quick comparison

FeatureGaziano & Girling St James IIEdward Green Dover
VerdictBuyBuy
Typical price$1,900–$2,300$1,500–$1,700
Best forBespoke-level RTWSplit-toe icon
Key featureSharp chiselled toe oxfordDover split-toe derby
MaterialCalf leatherCalf leather
SoleLeather, Goodyear weltedLeather, Goodyear welted
FitTrue to sizeTrue to size
Made inEnglandEngland
Where to buyCheck Price Paid linkCheck Price Paid link

Main differences

Material

Gaziano & Girling St James II: Calf leather; Edward Green Dover: Calf leather.

Sole

Gaziano & Girling St James II: Leather, Goodyear welted; Edward Green Dover: Leather, Goodyear welted.

Fit

Gaziano & Girling St James II: True to size; Edward Green Dover: True to size.

Made in

Gaziano & Girling St James II: England; Edward Green Dover: England.

Why buy it

Gaziano & Girling St James II: sharp chiselled toe oxford; Edward Green Dover: dover split-toe derby.

Made for

Gaziano & Girling St James II: bespoke-level RTW; Edward Green Dover: split-toe icon.

Usual price

Gaziano & Girling St James II: $1,900–$2,300; Edward Green Dover: $1,500–$1,700.

Which should you choose?

Choose the Gaziano & Girling St James II if you

  • you want near-bespoke ready-to-wear
  • value exceptional finishing
Check Price Paid link

Choose the Edward Green Dover if you

  • you want the iconic derby
  • value superb
Check Price Paid link

If neither feels right

Neither is the only answer. See every piece we would buy (and the ones we would skip) in our list of the best men’s dress shoes.

Not sure about either? Consider these

John Lobb City II Oxford

John Lobb · Men’s dress shoes

John Lobb City II Oxford

Buy it if you want the reference formal oxford.

Verdict
Buy
Best for
Benchmark oxford
Typical price
$1,795–$2,100

Pros

  • Superb craft
  • Resoleable

Cons

  • Expensive
Edward Green Chelsea 202

Edward Green · Men’s dress shoes

Edward Green Chelsea 202

Buy it if you want handmade English elegance.

Verdict
Buy
Best for
Connoisseur pick
Typical price
$1,500–$1,700

Pros

  • Excellent finishing
  • Resoleable

Cons

  • Pricey

Frequently asked questions

Gaziano & Girling St James II or Edward Green Dover: which should I buy?

Buy the Gaziano & Girling St James II if you want near-bespoke ready-to-wear. Buy the Edward Green Dover instead if you want the iconic derby.

Is the price difference worth it?

The Gaziano & Girling St James II usually costs $1,900–$2,300 and the Edward Green Dover $1,500–$1,700. Pay more only if the differences above matter to you.

Opulique Editorial Team

Part of the Opulique research team. We compare specifications, documentation and real-world trade-offs so you can decide faster.

Gaziano & Girling St James II or Edward Green Dover: the full reasoning

Gaziano & Girling St James II or Edward Green Dover? Both are strong men’s dress shoes, which is exactly why the choice is hard. The short version first: buy the Gaziano & Girling St James II if you want near-bespoke ready-to-wear, and buy the Edward Green Dover if you want the iconic derby. The rest of this page explains why, with usual US prices.

Where they differ

The Gaziano & Girling St James II wins on sharp chiselled toe oxford. The Edward Green Dover answers with dover split-toe derby. Material: Calf leather on the Gaziano & Girling St James II, Calf leather on the Edward Green Dover. Sole: Leather, Goodyear welted on the Gaziano & Girling St James II, Leather, Goodyear welted on the Edward Green Dover. Fit: True to size on the Gaziano & Girling St James II, True to size on the Edward Green Dover. Made in: England on the Gaziano & Girling St James II, England on the Edward Green Dover.

Reasons to buy the Gaziano & Girling St James II

Exceptional finishing, Elegant. What to accept: expensive. Usual price: $1,900–$2,300. Our verdict: buy. Read the full Gaziano & Girling St James II review.

Reasons to buy the Edward Green Dover

Superb. What to accept: pricey. Usual price: $1,500–$1,700. Our verdict: buy. Read the full Edward Green Dover review.

Neither one?

Our list of the best men’s dress shoes has every other piece with its own call. Construction: Goodyear-welted and hand-welted shoes can be resoled many times; Blake-stitched shoes are sleeker but resole fewer times.

Also consider the John Lobb City II Oxford ($1,795–$2,100): classic cap-toe oxford, Goodyear welted in Northampton. Buy it if you want the reference formal oxford.

Also consider the Edward Green Chelsea 202 ($1,500–$1,700): cap-toe oxford on the 202 last. Buy it if you want handmade English elegance.

Buyer tip

Fit shoes in the afternoon, when feet are largest, and wear them with the socks you will use. Shoe trees in cedar double the life of good shoes.

Buying in Europe: Italian and French sizes are used on most designer shoes, and they differ from US sizes by brand. Check the house’s own size chart, and remember that many Italian brands run about half a size small.

Luxury prices move in a different rhythm from everyday shopping. The great houses (Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Rolex) raise prices once or twice a year, often in January and in spring, and almost never discount their icons. Seasonal pieces, colors and many shoes, coats and knitwear drop 30–50% in the end-of-season sales in January and from late June. Watches from brands such as Omega, TAG Heuer, Longines and Breitling, and most fragrance, see the best prices around Prime Day and Black Friday. Judge any deal against the usual price we show.